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Ride out to Aberystwyth

This ride had been an awful long time in contemplation, being the first time my son and I rode out in company each on our own bikes: he has taken some four of five years about passing his test, from first to last. Some would say his even more important achievement shortly before that, was his engagement to Harriet; and she came too, riding pillion behind me. Roger is not insured to carry a passenger, partly because of the additional premium and partly out of a cautious wish to get in some solo experience first. He was riding his Kawasaki GT550 - the same one I once used with a sidecar - Harriet and I, my newly acquired Diversion 600.

It was cold, and bright but not sunny, and dry for the moment, but with every promise of showers later; so warm waterproofs were packed into Roger's top box. We had prepared for the ride, the previous day, by emptying three cans of oil into two bikes and a car and a bottle of wine down our three necks. It was, accordingly, nine before we took a light breakfast and just after ten before we were away.

This was the Sunday of May Bank Holiday weekend, and I led the first stage avoiding the obvious main road, leaving Telford instead via the B-road through Much Wenlock to Craven Arms, then through Clun to Newport. Traffic was surprisingly light. As far as Clun the road is open and sweeping, and with due care over a couple of nasty double bends is an easy ride; but past Clun its character changes. We took our time over this mountain road, which somehow or other I have not ridden before. It is spectacularly beautiful, and has severe bends and gradients. There was also quite a lot of loose gravel, and this seemed to be a feature of the day. I don't know whether it's the wet winter, or cost-cutting, but the state of the roads seems worse than I ever remember it.

At Newport, by prior arrangement, we refuelled. By this time we were ready for warmth and refreshment. We asked the cashier at the petrol station where we could get a coffee, and she wanted to send us back towards Welshpool, so we decided to go on and take our chance of finding somewhere. It took a while!

That was my fault. Roger led from here, but I misdirected him out of Newtown onto the Llandidrod Wells road, going south. I realised almost at once, but some miles elapsed before I could safely pull him over. We consulted maps, and decided to go over the mountain, using the unclassified road to Bwlch-y-Sarnau and Pant-y-Dwr. This was a steep climb onto open moorland, rewarded by fine wide views, and brought us back to Llanidloes having covered sixteen miles instead of four!

The traffic on the A44 from Llanidloes was surprisingly light - presumably the cold discouraged too many people from going out - and moving well, so for the most part we stayed in line at 55-60, occasionally overtaking when a safe opportunity offered. Two riders on Fireblades came blasting past us on the wrong side of a blind bend, and I was glad Roger showed no inclination to chase them. It didn't do them much good: overtaking opportunities are very limited on that road, and ten miles on they were only a few vehicles ahead.

We took the left fork, over the hills again to Devil's Bridge, and there, finally, at 1:30, we found a cafe. We wanted more than coffee by now - All-day Breakfasts all round. The cafe was not very warm even inside, but food and hot liquid did the trick, and we set off in good form for the descent into Aberystwyth, down that lovely road with its views into the gorge below to the right, and looking out for the first sight of the sea ahead, and eventually seeing Aberystwyth laid out like a toy town, its white buildings winking in the weak sunshine.

Outward distance, 120 miles; time, including stops, roughly four hours.

Aber is a popular destination for bikers, and there were some dozens parked on the promenade. We joined them, and sat for a while enjoying the sight and smell of the sea, the taste of hot chocolate and the howls and growls of the Ninjas and Harleys. The sun came out, and the day began to warm up. We walked along past the pier to the castle, then into the town. I'm not quite sure how we took two hours about it, but we did, and it was very pleasant.

We left by the A44 back towards Newtown. The traffic was heavier by now, but once clear of the town it was moving well, and I, leading, gave up on trying to get past: we'd work for two or three miles to pass a line of cars safely, only to catch up with another line around the next bend. At 50, this road is a very easy ride, but although not twisty like the mountain roads earlier there are very few straight stretches, and the bends are tight enough to keep a rider interested.

At Newtown we finally reached the Little Chef half-a-mile from the garage we'd refuelled at in the morning. Time for that half mile: six hours! Then, instead of making for Shrewsbury on the A470, we took to the B-road through Montgomery and Yockleton. This isn't quite as easy to find as it looks on the map, but I've done it several times before and we didn't get lost. It is a wonderful road for a bike - very little traffic (it's all on the parallel A-road), sweeping bends and long switchback straights. Beware though - some of the dips in the switchbacks can hide an oncoming car - or tractor.

Short of going through the town, there's no way of avoiding the main road at Shrewsbury. Once there was a road due west from Wroxeter (Viruconium), but the Romans built it before Shrewbury was invented and even by Norman times it was in decline. (We came along part of it west of Shrewsbury, and it can be followed towards Welshpool from Westbury.) But we took the old A5 from the east of the town to Atcham, then came home past Wroxeter and through Buildwas. Of course, I know this road well, and traffic was light, so we took it at speed, Roger following my line as a deliberate exercise in gaining experience.

And just as we got home, literally the last mile, the rain that had kept off all day started. By the time it fell heavily we were indoors, having had a great ride and a lovely day.

Return distance, 90 miles; time, including one stop, 2.5 hours.

12th May 2001


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