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Vikings, Cistercians (maybe), wild flowers, sea-birds, raised beaches, rocky outcrops, basalt dykes, comfortable stone houses fronting the shore… |
Approaching The College of the Holy Spirit on Cumbrae is like a fairy tale: a glimpse of the spire from the sea front, then up a little lane, turning right through an arch into wooded grounds, seeing stone buildings balanced high above; and up a series of short stone staircases (it's a shame to go round and avoid them) into a beautifully private architectural space – with gentle open country in view from many of the windows.
The Isle of Cumbrae is one of two lovely small islands in the Clyde estuary. There are fabulous views and walks, and the cycle round the isle, 10 miles or so, is locally famous. The College is Gothic Revival at its very best. It was built by Butterfield, the same architect who built Keble College Oxford, and has much the same cloistered atmosphere, comfortable rather than stylish. We meet in the Library and eat in the Refectory. The food is simple and the staff are kind.
The College is part of the smallest cathedral in Britain – and unquestionably Millport is the tiniest city in Britain (the island population is only 1393).